Essaouira. It sounds like a deep exhale. And it is after the franticness of Marrakesh. The success of Morocco's football team over Tunisia and Tanzania over the courseofou time there only added teenage males cloaked in the red of their country's flag to the furor by the thousands. It was hot and crowded. And somebody was always trying to get us to do or buy something.
The Atlantic Ocean air blows that intensity inland, leaving Essaouira breezy and cool. We eat fresh grilled spider crab by the sea. It is buttery with meaty legs. We wander into a music store where a passionate shopkeeper takes us on an hour-long auditory tour of Gnauan and African music. He says the hand percussion is designed to imitate the sound of the slace chains. He plays songs of jazz infused in traditional Gnauan sound. I think of Jimi Hendrix and how magical musically is visit to Essaouira must have been forty years ago. I look at a CD on the wall - Ali Farke Toure and Ry Cooder. I wonde what other combinations like this have been recorded.
A mist crawls in to obscure the sunset and cool the evening. We loune ove a long and leisurely dinner in peace. It feels like we haven't felt this peaceful since Spain.
The Atlantic Ocean air blows that intensity inland, leaving Essaouira breezy and cool. We eat fresh grilled spider crab by the sea. It is buttery with meaty legs. We wander into a music store where a passionate shopkeeper takes us on an hour-long auditory tour of Gnauan and African music. He says the hand percussion is designed to imitate the sound of the slace chains. He plays songs of jazz infused in traditional Gnauan sound. I think of Jimi Hendrix and how magical musically is visit to Essaouira must have been forty years ago. I look at a CD on the wall - Ali Farke Toure and Ry Cooder. I wonde what other combinations like this have been recorded.
A mist crawls in to obscure the sunset and cool the evening. We loune ove a long and leisurely dinner in peace. It feels like we haven't felt this peaceful since Spain.
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